Lake Superior: The World’s Best Playground

The birth of Minnesota’s North Shore was a dramatic fire and ice event – the end resulted in the world’s best playground. Stephanie Pearson, from Outside Online, discusses the Lake Superior area and writes: “All ­together it’s a giant, world-class playground for hiking, trail running, mountain biking, kayak­ing, sailing,

Sailboat
Ship sailing near Grand Marais, MN

backcountry camping, and open-water swimming (for anyone crazy enough to try).” I would like to add agate-hunting, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, bird-watching, nature-photography, mountain climbing, canoeing, berry picking,

Berry Picking
Berry picking in Tettegouche State Park

and fly-fishing to the list.

Eight state parks line the North Shore of Lake Superior in MN, ready for explorers. Walking on Basalt RocksEach park has unique and magnificent natural wonders that really need to be experienced in order to fully appreciate them.

Frozen Pigeon Falls
Winter at Grand Portage State Park

Because of the dramatic geological history of the Lake Superior area, much of the North Shore is wild, rugged, and left untouched. Cascading waterfalls awash viewers in a light mist,

Backcountry Waterfalls
The falls at George H. Crosby Manitou State Park

deep gorges give the faint of heart butterflies in the stomach as I cling to a tree while others go to peer over the edge (wait, did I write “I”?), River Cutting Gorgelayers of pine needles on the trails feel soft underfoot and give off a sweet strawberry aroma, wild blueberries, raspberries, and thimble berries await the hungry hiker in late summer,

Thimble Berries
Thimbleberries

and bright colors of lichen adorn the ancient basalt bedrock that lines the lake. Lichen on BasaltYou may even catch a moose swimming in a backcountry wetland, bald eagles soaring over the cliffs, deer nibbling on spring growth, and trout darting under the overhangs in the many creeks and rivers that bubble and tumble into Lake Superior.

Red Squirrel
Red Squirrel

If you are one of those people who is crazy enough to slip into the icy waters of Lake Superior, you are in for an adventure.

Taking The Plunge

When you step into the frigid waters of Lake Superior, it takes mere seconds before your feet start to ache from the arctic water, and only a minute or so before your skin goes numb, thank goodness.

Agate Hunting in Water
Cold, Aching Feet

Although, at the numbing point you have to exercise caution, as the feet tend to stumble around as they try to navigate the slippery rocks underfoot. My family has had a yearly tradition of submersing ourselves in the icy waters. I swear, we are not crazy (okay, at least not all of us). This tradition is more of an “Okay, Lake. Give us all you’ve got. We can handle it!” kind of thing. We often have one or two people that slip due to numb feet – sending them splashing, ill-prepared into Lake Superior’s ice-bath. Taking A DipFor some reason, those who are standing can’t help but laugh, but at the same time are thanking the Lord above that it wasn’t them – this time. We usually have curious on-lookers, who are most certainly happy they are still dry and warm where they watch, but can’t wait to see the reactions of the swimmers as they dive it. What does it feel like to dive in?

Walking out to the point where we submerge ourselves usually takes us at least five minutes. I don’t know why we take so long. It’s not like we ever really get used to the water. Our minds are probably stopping us. We don’t swim on days when the waves are large. No thank you! Here in MN, most of us don’t know how to handle those ocean-size waves – especially those that are near freezing temperature. The guys usually take a little longer to get used to the water (ahem), but usually stay out longer than the women. There is usually a 10-second count down to submersion. On zero, we dunk under. Our breath gets caught as the cold envelopes the our entire body. In seconds we explode out of the cold water. A few of the crazy ones stay to swim (I told you not all of us were crazy) for a few minutes – relishing in the cold, weightless, free-feeling of swimming. Everyone who emerges from the lake (we haven’t lost anyone yet) steps out with a smile on their face. If for only a minute or two, we bested the giant, frigid, vast lake. After stepping back onto the shore, we like to warm ourselves on the rocks. Warming Up On The RocksThis always (yes, always) leads to agate hunting as we relish in the warmth of the rock.

Hunting The Not-So-Elusive Lake Superior Agate

Agate On The BeachAgates can be found in almost every country around the world, but the regions around Lake Superior are the only areas in the world containing the Lake Superior agate.

According the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR):

The Lake Superior agate differs from other agates found around the world in its rich red, orange, and yellow coloring. This color scheme is caused by the oxidation of iron. Iron leached from rocks provided the pigment that gives the gemstone its beautiful array of color. The concentration of iron and the amount of oxidation determine the color within or between an agate’s bands.

These agates can be found in much of Minnesota and into Northwest Wisconsin, as glacial movement spread agates with constant friction and movement throughout the ice age. What I believe is so special is that anyone can find agates in Minnesota. Agates are everywhere. Every time we go to the North Shore, my family brings home dozens of Lake Superior agates. Most of them are the size of dimes or quarters, and if we’re lucky, we may go home with silver-dollar sized rocks, but these are much more rare. All you need is to know what to look for when searching for the not-so-elusive agate.

Agate Hunting
Agate hunting north of Grand Marais, MN

The DNR goes on to provide a list of what to look for when searching for one of Minnesota’s state gemstones:

  • Iron-oxide staining in shades of rust-red and yellow is found on most Lake Superior agates.
  • Translucence allows light to penetrate the stone. Sunny days, especially early morning and late evening, are best for observing translucence as the sun rays shine through the stone.
  • A glossy or waxy appearance, especially on a chipped or broken surface of a stone.
  • A pitted texture often covers the surface of agates. This appearance is the result of knobs or projections from an initial layer of softer mineral matter deposited on the wall of the cavity in which the agate formed. These projections shaped the exterior of the agates as the layers of silicon dioxide formed inside of the cavity.

Agates can be found on the shores of Lake Superior, in rock pits, in riverbeds, on dirt roads, and anywhere else in MN where glaciers once roamed. Agate hunting is a great reason to get out and explore the hiking trails on the North Shore (although collecting rocks is not something that is allowed in the state or national parks).

Hundreds of Miles of Hiking Trails

Luckily, for nature lovers and explorers alike, the North Shore is rich in hiking trails to explore all that makes up the magnificent North Shore. The state and national parks offer many miles of hiking trails ranging from easy, paved, and accessible to difficult and rocky with many steps. One of the best hiking trails, in my humble opinion, is the Superior Hiking Trail.

Superior Hiking Trail

Sawtooth Mountains.jpg
Overlooking the Sawtooth Mountains on the Superior Hiking Trail

The Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) starts south of Duluth, MN at Jay Cooke State Park and winds northward for 43 miles until it reaches the city of Duluth – where the Lake Superior shore starts. This section of the trail is known as the Duluth section. The North Shore section of the trail starts in Duluth and follow’s Minnesota’s North Shore for 269 miles before it ends just before the Canadian border. This section follows the ridgeline overlooking Lake Superior, connects to many of the state park trails, and provides day hiking and backpack hiking opportunities with 93 backcountry campsites available.

Many visitors and tourists flock to the North Shore, especially during the summer months. Because of this, the state parks get very busy as they are all situated on State Highway 61, and very easy to access. Even in the summer months, The Superior Hiking Trail often feels like the trail-less-traveled when you hike the North Shore. There are many days where a hiker will not see another soul. And yet, the beauty awaits and surprises SHT hikers at every twist and turn.

Fallen Giant in Backcountry Waters
Fallen giant in still waters – George H. Crosby Manitou State Park

The actual trails are only about 18″ wide, so the hiker truly does feel connected to nature. From sugar maples to red pines and yellow birch; and violets to blue-bead lily

Blue-bead Lily
Blue-Bead Lily

and jewelweed – the flora is magnificent on the SHT from snow melt in the spring to snow cover in that late fall.

Because the trails are less populated, you are also more likely to see the amazing birds that frequent the area, black bears (be careful with your food), fox, beaver, and if you’re lucky, you may spot the elusive moose.

Prairie Dog
Franklin’s Ground Squirrel – Two Harbors, MN

Last, but definitely not least, don’t shy away from hiking the trails in the off-season.

Off-Season Magic

Winter and early spring brings a fresh, new magic to the North Shore.

Winter Sunset
Winter sunset just north of Grand Marais

Towns that are usually bustling with tourists during the summer and fall months are now quiet and peaceful.

Winter in Grand Marais
Grand Marais, Minnesota

State parks that are often over-crowded are open and yearning for explorers. Trails are covered with snow that crunches underfoot and have a quiet serenity to them.

Emma and Brook on Winter Trail
Hiking the Superior Hiking Trail in winter

And, area waterfalls create captivating ice formations as the falling water freezes as it falls.Freezing Falls I have yet to meet other hikers on the SHT during the winter, though snowshoe tracks tell me that I’m not the only one enjoying the cold, clean snow on the trails. Most trails are suitable for snowshoeing throughout the snowy months, but check before you head out cross-country skiing because some trails are too hilly and rocky for skis to navigate.

Ice Covered Rocks2
Ice-glazed boulders – Grand Marais, MN

Don’t forget to explore the lakeside during the winter months too. Since the temperature of the water in Lake Superior stays pretty constant year-round, the lake rarely freezes. Because of this, the shores usually stay clear for winter agate hunting.

Winter Agate Hunting
Winter agate hunting.

And, the splashing waves can make some pretty incredible ice sculptures during cold snaps when water droplets cling to boulders, twigs, and driftwood.Ice on Wood

When early spring emerges from deep sleep, the North Shore is just as exciting! Bright green shoots of cold-hardy plants can be seen breaking through the snow pack. Spring wildflowers pop up. Waterfalls begin to rush full-force with the snow-melt rushing into the gorges from higher elevation. Falls on BedrockIce on rivers begins to thin and breakup, providing fishermen the chance at an early-spring steelhead trout in the open waters.

Steelhead
Sorry fishermen – not giving up this spot

And feeling the first warm breezes off the lake promises that warmer days are just around the corner.

Minnesota’s North Shore

Winter, spring, summer, and fall bring new and different opportunities to get outside and get into nature on Minnesota’s North Shore. The dramatic fire-and-ice geological events paved the way for an incredible year-round playground that everyone can enjoy.

Snail on Superior Rock

Tiny snails on stones,

Thick Blankets of Moss.jpg

thick blankets of moss on bedrock,

Pup By Fishing Supplies

trout in streams,

Harbor

massive ship harbors,

Rock Stacking

stacks of stones,

Rock Turtle

stone turtles,

Abandoned Cabin2

and old, abandoned fish houses await your arrival. So, pack up your hiking boots, guide books, agate hunting supplies, fly-rods, canoes, snowshoes, cameras, and swimsuits (if you dare) and come explore Minnesota’s North Shore – the world’s largest and best playground.

Sand Piper

19 Replies to “Lake Superior: The World’s Best Playground”

  1. Celeste Burton says: Reply

    Awesome Erin
    Reading the past two blogs you wrote make us want to pack up the truck and go up north ! Were we love to spend time with our children and grandchildren exploreing all the beauty that you tell your readers 🤗 We have travel up to the north shores since our boys were little and haven’t stop 👍Keep up the wonderful writing and information! If they can t go there you are doing a awesome job of bringing the wonders of the great north shore to them !!
    Celeste

    1. I love this comment! THANK YOU!!! The North Shore is a magical place, isn’t it. I don’t think I could ever get sick of it. We are lucky to live so close so we can just pack up and head North a few hours. Thanks for taking the time to read and comment. 🙂

  2. The North Shore looks sooo lovely!

    I like the sound of the hiking (and the berries) and then using that chilly water to revive your legs at the end of the day! Your photos are lovely Erin. It’s easy to see you have plenty of good memories there!!

    1. A lifetime of wonderful memories. And, I always look forward to making more. The North Shore is amazing. Thanks so much for reading and commenting, Josy!

  3. Wow. Now you’ve really made me want to go here. It’s looks so beautiful & tranquil. Somewhere you can really feel “at one with nature” and full of healthy air. Also, wonderful photos.

    1. If you ever get the chance to visit, I promise you will not be let down. 🙂 Easily one of my favorite places to be. Thanks so much for your comment and kind words, Hayley!

  4. Wow it looks like a place you’d really want to spend one exploring and getting at one with nature. So much to see and explore! Great pictures too.

    1. Rachael, the North Shore is easily one of my favorite places in the world. Exploration and spending time in nature is blissful there. Thanks so much for your comment and kind words. 🙂

  5. What a lovely place to visit. You must feel really in touch with nature here. great photos Erin, especially your main photo of the snail. Amazing contrast of size in comparison to the rock! 🙂

    1. Thanks so much for your lovely comment and kind words, Lorelle. The North Shore is always a treat to visit. I never tire of traveling there, and there has never been a time where I didn’t feel a bit sad leaving.

    2. Oh, and regarding the snail picture – the snail was tiny! A little smaller than the size of a pea. I thought he or she was pretty cute – especially when the little head popped out of the shell. Thanks again 🙂

  6. You should submit this to the tourism board! You have such passion for outdoor spaces, I wonder if there’s some opportunity to contribute your writing to the websites that give people information about these areas? As I read this I though, “wow, I’d like to pick up a brochure version of this post when I’m staying at a resort in Lutsen.” The story of your family and how you’re engaging with nature both keeps a reader engaged and provides ideas like–hey I can do that! (maybe not the super cold plunge–but then again, maybe?)
    Anyway, points to ponder.

    1. This is great, Angela! You’ve definitely given me some thoughts to ponder. A little bit of research is in order to see how I can work on the points you discuss. This could be a good starting to my “bring my writing to the next level” goal for this year. As always, thanks so much for your thoughtful comment and kind words.

  7. Wow, Erin that’s amazing photography. Made me think of NZ for some reason, no doubt all the outdoorsy activity. Loved the stone turtle, that made me smile 🙂

    1. Thanks so much, Suzanne! The North Shore of Lake Superior is definitely one of my passions. I think I have thousands of pictures stored on my computer from my trips up there.

      You should see all of the things people do with the rocks up there. 🙂

      Thanks so much for your sweet comment!

    2. Oh, and by the way, I REALLY hope that I get to see NZ someday!

  8. This just kept my mouth open in awe . This place is Amazingly breathtaking . You re so blessed to have the opportunity to be there^^.

    1. And, my pictures can’t do the North Shore justice! You have to experience it to realize the full beauty. Thank you though for your kind words.

      1. You just added lists to my bucket then^^.

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